Q: What does sugar do in baking? Could I just use less and use artificial sweeteners?

Dear Baker: Beyond being a sweetener and flavor enhancer, sugar (and the amount called for in standard baked goods) plays a critical role in the science of baking. Some of its most critical functions are:

• Interacts with starch and protein during baking for the structure of products.
• Acts as a tenderizer by absorbing water, inhibiting gluten development (so cookies, cakes, quick breads aren't tough), and delaying starch gelatinization (setting).
• Incorporates air into batters and dough (creaming) for light textures and crumb.
• Caramelizes (browns) under heat to provide cooked and baked foods with pleasing color and aroma.
• Speeds the growth of yeast by providing nourishment.
• Stabilizes beaten egg foams (meringue).
• Makes simple syrups and invert sugars used in frostings and fillings.

Home baking will get its best results with sugar - granulated, brown, confectioners', and coarse. Substituting artificial sweeteners is a complex science and not all sweeteners available for home use are appropriate for baking.

(See glossary for sugar definitions.)

Also, visit: www.sugar.org.